Wandering Through Kyoto's Historic Higashiyama Ward
Kyoto, Japan, September 7, 2019
We spent the entire day exploring Kyoto’s historic Higashiyama Ward to visit some of Kyoto’s famous temple and shrines. The name “Higashiyama” means “Eastern Moutain”, referring to it’s position along the lower slopes of Kyoto’s eastern mountains. It’s one of the eleven wards that make up the city of Kyoto.
Despite being one of the smaller ward at 7.48 km² size, Higashiyama is renowned as a cultural and historical hub, with many well-preserved traditional buildings. It’s also home to numerous famous temples and shrines.
Today, our main goal was to visit Kiyomizu-dera temple and Yasaka Shrine. While we couldn’t cover the entire ward, we did wander around the nearby streets, including Chawanzaka, Kiyomizuzaka, Ninenzaka, and Sannenzaka.
Chawanzaka (茶わん坂)
Chawanzaka, also known as “Teapot Lane”, reflects it’s long history associated with pottery and ceramics. This area gained prominence during the Edo period due to the popularity of the tea ceremony. The street is lined with numerous pottery and souvenir shops, but unfortunately, we arrived quite early in the morning, and most of the shops were still clsoed.
Chawanzaka is a charming street and is one of the street that leads to Kiyomizu-dera Temple. There are several shops where you can rent Kimonos, such as Okamoto, Fukumoto, and Kiyomi, if you want to fully immerse yourself in the experience. The road is well-maintained but has a gentle slope, which could be challenging if you have mobility issue.
Kiyomizuzaka (清水坂)
After visiting the beautiful Temple of Kiyomizu-dera, we wandered through a few nearby streets, gradually making our way to Yasaka Shrine. We chose the Kiyomizuzaka route, as it’s the immediate street right in front of Kiyomizu-dera’s Niomon gate. This street is a popular route for visitors heading to the temple and is know for its bustling atmoshphere and traditional Japanese shops.
We were fascinated by the souvenir shops in the area and picked up a few omiyage (souvenirs) for friends and families. As the day progressed, the streets around Kiyomizu-dera Temple became busier. Being a tourist hotspot, the prices here are a bit on the higher side.
It was quite hot when we visited in September. Sonia tends to sweat a lot in such weather, while I don’t sweat much. Fortunately, there are plenty of confectionary shops offering delicious Kyoto sweets and desserts along this street. We grabbed some ice cream bar to cool us down. It’s a strawberry milk bar and it was very good and refreshing. Unfortunately, I forgot which shop it was from. Do you have favorite shop in Kiyomizuzaka?
Sannenzaka (産寧坂)
From Kiyomizuzaka, we took a detour to Sannenzaka via a small alley known as Sannenzaka path. This historic and picturesque stone-paved street is named Sannenzaka, which translate to “Three-Year Slope”, derived from a local legend that suggest if you slip and fall on this slope, you will face misfortune within the next three years. Imagine the anxiety on that!
As the name suggests, this street has plenty of stairs and they’re very steep, so be careful with your steps to avoid any misfortune. It’s especially challenging when you’re carrying a sleeping toddler in a stroller. If we had dropped him, we would have faced the misfortune of a crying baby for three hours!
Sannenzaka is enchanting and beautiful street with it’s cobblestone path and stone stairs, free from modern infrastructure like power poles. This area provides a window into Kyoto’s past, preserving a delightful, old world charm. It’s also a popular spot for photography, particularly with people dressed in traditional kimono or yukata. Walking these steps reminds me of a small village in the hills of Northeast Taiwan called Jiufen.
Ninenzaka (二寧坂)
As we made our way to Yasaka Shrine, we also strolled through Ninenzaka. This 150-meter stone-paved road is often paired with Sannenzaka, as they share a similar vibe. However, Ninenzaka has it’s own unique legend. The name Ninenzaka translates to “Two-Years Hill”. According to legend, couples who walk its path together may face challenges in the following two years.
This street lead us to the most unique Starbucks store that is preserved in Taisho-era architecture. It was the most distinctive starbucks experience we’ve ever been and is a must-visit if you’re in the area.
If you’re a fan of Ghibli, there is a shop called Donguri Kyowakoku, also known as the Ghibli Store. It offers a wide range of official Studio Ghibli merchandise. You can find everything from plush toys and figurines to keychains, tableware, and stationery featuring beloved characters like Totoro, Jiji, and No-Face. We went inside to browse around. Although it was very tempting, we didn’t end up buying anything.
There’s also a Peter Rabbit store here, although we didn’t go inside. Aside from that, Ninenzaka and Sannenzaka share a similar charm. However, Ninenzaka tends to be a bit quieter and more serene, while Sannenzaka is more vibrant due to it’s direct connection to the famous Kiyomizu-dera Temple. Both street offer a glimpse of Kyoto’s past and are wonderful to explore.
We missed one other historic, Ichinenzaka. It’s much shorter compared to Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka, but we just happened to overlook it. I guess that’s one reason to come back and explore more of this magnificent place. For a comprehensive experience of Kyoto’s historic streets, be sure not to miss Ichinenzaka to complete your journey.
The Conclusion
Wandering around Higashiyama Ward, especially through the charming streets of Chawanzaka, Kiyomizuzaka, Sannenzaka, Ninenzaka, and Ichinenzaka is like stepping back in time. Each street offers a unique blend of historical charm and cultural richness. Together, these streets create a tapestry of experiences that showcase the beauty and history of Kyoto. Whether you’re exploring the bustling market, enjoying a quite moment in a teahouse, or simply taking a scenic views, Higashiyama Ward promises a memorable journey through Japan’s cultural heart.
Have you visited these streets before, or are you planning to explore them soon?